To French fur trappers of the 19th century, three peaks in the range of mountains comprising the western boundary of “Jackson’s Hole” resembled a woman’s breasts, so they gave them the name “Les Trois Tetons” (the three breasts). (One must remember that these trappers spent many months at a time alone in the wilderness.) Rather than going with the direct translation (The Three Breasts National Park probably would have been a bit awkward), English-speaking settlers referred to the range as the Grand Tetons, undoubtedly the most distinctive mountain range in the United States, and perhaps in all of North America. Spanning the relatively short distance of 40 miles, the Grand Tetons reach nearly 14,000 feet above sea level and have inspired painters and photographers for generations.

The most famous of these artists in the region’s early history of white settlement was Thomas Moran, for whom one of the mountains in the range is now named. In the early 1870s, Moran visited the Yellowstone and Grand Teton region and painted stunning landscapes of the area that showed more than a little artist’s discretion in Moran’s tendency to exaggerate the scene. His most famous painting was one of the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River, which eventually found its way to the U.S. Capitol building.

Joining Moran was photographer William Jackson, who documented the landscape and the sparse settlements of the area. This is not the Jackson for whom the region is named, however. David E. Jackson, a frequent visitor to the area about a half century before William Jackson saw the area, is the namesake of Jackson Hole. The term “hole” is the name early settlers used to refer to a mountain valley, and it now refers to the entire region from just south of Yellowstone to the town of Jackson, Wyoming, a stretch of perhaps 50 miles.

More than 4 million people visit Jackson Hole each year, mostly between Memorial Day and Labor Day, and the region has become home to the rich and famous. Most noted is actor Harrison Ford, perhaps the area’s most well known semi-permanent resident (who donates his time and expertise flying a search and rescue helicopter when he’s in town). Looking for a small, quiet hideaway in Jackson Hole? A quarter of a million dollars will get you a three bedroom, two bath bungalow without a view (small residences in town run a little less, assuming it’s not new construction). Anything with size, acreage and a view runs toward the million dollar range these days, though you can still pick up a bargain now and then for a half million or so. It’s not uncommon for people who work in Jackson to live across the pass in Idaho or down the Snake River in Star Valley, Wyoming (featured in Chapter Six), not unlike other Western hotspots like Sun Valley, Idaho and Aspen, Colorado. Despite that, lodging and food in Jackson are not unreasonably priced.

Since the valley floor rests at more than 7,000 above sea level, winter comes early, takes a firm grip and doesn’t let go for six months or more, making the tourist season very short. Many hikes leading even a few hundred feet above the valley floor are snowbound well past Memorial Day. Autumn comes in mid-September, and winter can come almost any time. “If summer ever falls on a weekend, we’ll have a picnic” Wyoming residents have been known to say.

Still, the shoulder seasons of April-May and mid-September through early November are good times to visit the area, particularly the fall season. Large condos that can accommodate a couple of families go for $150 a night (a third of what they cost in peak season), and the valley is nearly empty of tourists. Some of the restaurants are closed, but it’s still a great time to visit. Jackson Hole has a brief but spectacular fall foliage season in late September that coincides with the elk rut. A day spent looking at the cottonwood and aspen trees and hearing the echo of the elk bugle is an unforgettable experience.

In winter, two world class ski resorts, one in the town of Jackson and one on the southern end of the Teton Range at Teton Village about 15 minutes away, draw thousands of skiers and the region takes on a whole different personality. At Christmas, Jackson is a magical place to shop and enjoy an authentic winter experience. So authentic, in fact, that temperatures are routinely well below zero. Thousands of elk spend the winter just north of Jackson at the National Elk Refuge, where the elk are fed and protected. Horse-drawn sleighs take visitors out for an up-close-and-personal look at the elk in their winter habitat.

It’s worth noting that the Jackson Hole Airport handles jet and commuter traffic year round and is just a few miles north of the town of Jackson. It’s the only commercial airport in the United States inside a national park.

U.S. 89 (in this area it joins with U.S. Highways 191, 26, 189 and 287 in various places) enters Jackson Hole from the north after passing through a forested region now known as the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Parkway south of Yellowstone National Park. The land in this area was purchased by the Rockefellers and eventually donated to the federal government. For the record, this section of U.S. 89 is know as the “Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway” by the state of Wyoming.

There’s a wandering opportunity shortly after exiting Yellowstone worthy of note for four-wheel-drive owners. A little more than three miles past the Yellowstone entrance but before reaching the boundary to Grand Teton is Reclamation Road, a dirt road that runs west of U.S. 89 through the Targhee National Forest into Idaho, eventually coming out east of Ashton, Idaho. The first part of the road is graded and wide, but the road narrows and gets more difficult with elevation, though it’s a very easy drive for any sport utility vehicle or four-wheel-drive pick-up. This road provides a southern access route to Yellowstone’s Bechler region. Those who want to see Bechler but don’t want to endure a three-day back-packing trip can see parts of Bechler on long day hikes beginning near Grass Lake Reservoir on Reclamation Road. For those interested, further inquiring locally is essential.

Not far down the road on U.S. 89 is the entrance to Grand Teton National Park. Shortly, the road curves east and soon the first views of Jackson Lake, a reservoir created by a dam on the Snake River a few miles downstream, can be seen through the pine trees and at turnouts. This area also affords the first glimpse of the Tetons, though from this vantage point the classic view of the Grand Teton and its sister peaks can’t be seen. U.S. 89 stays within the park from here all the way to just a few miles north of Jackson.

To see the major sites of Grand Teton is a much easier task than the same goal at Yellowstone. The park is much smaller and there are only two major roads: U.S. 26/89/191 and Teton Park Road. There are dozens of turnoffs on both the highway and the park road that provide opportunities to see the mountain range from a variety of vantage points. The range looks very different when viewed from each angle and depending on the time of day. There are also three major lakes (Jackson, Leigh and Jenny) and a number of smaller ones (String, Bradley, Taggart, Phelps) in the park. This makes “seeing” the park a very easy assignment. Casual visitors not into any major effort can still have a very satisfying experience by sticking to these convenient spots.

The best way to do this is to make it a loop. For example, if Jackson is your base, start out in the morning by driving north on U.S. 89 and take the highway all the way to Jackson Lake Junction, stopping at turnouts as you go. At Jackson Lake Junction, take the Teton Park Road back south, which gives you a closer view of the Tetons and goes along a number of the park’s lakes. At Moose Junction where Teton Park Road comes to an end, turn onto the Moose-Wilson road just past the park entry gate and follow this road (there are a couple of miles of dirt, the remainder is paved) to Wyoming Highway 22, which takes you back to Jackson.

On this loop trip, there are just a couple of places to stop for lunch, most notably Jackson Lake Lodge (actually just past the Jackson Lake Junction and, therefore, not on the “loop”) and the Signal Mountain area. Better yet, take a picnic and eat at one of the many picnic areas along the way. There’s also one interesting side trip, to the Gros Ventre (pronounced grow vaunt) Slide area. This road goes east at Gros Ventre Junction on the south end of the park and takes you to the site of a massive landslide in 1925 when some 50 million tons of sandstone broke loose, damming the Gros Ventre River and creating Lower Slide Lake. The dam broke loose two years later, causing massive flooding downstream. Shortly before entering the canyon where the slide occurred, watch for an old homestead site north of the road – it’s worth a stop.

For the four-wheel-drive owner, there’s a drive on the opposite side of the valley from the Teton Range that affords breathtaking views of both the valley and the range in the distance. To get there, drive to the National Elk Refuge east of Jackson. Follow Forest Service Road 40 as it winds among the foothills of the Gros Ventre range. It eventually follows the Gros Ventre River back to U.S. 89 north of Jackson.

This is the urbane way to see Grand Teton. Breakfast in town, an air-conditioned drive through the park, a comfortable picnic lunch and dinner at one of Jackson’s many excellent restaurants at the end of a pleasant day of sight-seeing.

So, couch potato touring isn’t your style? The Tetons offer plenty of options for burning a few calories.

The most popular hike in the park is to Hidden Falls on the Teton side of Jenny Lake. The falls can be reached from trailheads on either the north or south end of Jenny Lake and is a round trip of a little more than five miles. There is little elevation change until the very end, when the trail rises a couple of hundred feet to the base of the falls, which is really a very long cascade (but very scenic nonetheless). During peak season, boats ferry people from the south side of the lake to near the base of the falls, which cuts five miles off the walk. There are a number of trails that fork off of the Hidden Falls trail heading up-slope. Consult the park visitors center or the many available hiking guides for more information. Oh by the way, black bears are seen in this area often, though they rarely cause any trouble. To be safe, walk in groups, talk as you walk, and carry specially constituted bear pepper spray (available in the park or in Jackson).

Another popular hike is the Taggart Lake loop, accessible at the Taggart Lake trailhead on the Teton Park Road. This trail goes to Taggart and Bradley lakes and provides access to Amphitheater Lake up the canyon between Nez Perce and Teewinot peaks. The trail is part of a complex of trails that run north and south along the base of the range providing access to a number of canyons between the peaks, including Death Canyon, Open Canyon and Granite Canyon south of Taggart Lake and Avalanche Canyon and Garnet Canyon north of Taggart. These various trails lead to waterfalls, lakes and stunning views back into Jackson Hole. All of the canyon trails are hefty climbs.

For the serious hiker, the hike to Hidden Falls is the beginning of a hike of more than 20 miles over the Teton range through Cascade Canyon and into Idaho. Another trail runs along the crest of the range and can be accessed by most of the canyon trails. Before attempting any of these, get expert advice, be sure you’re in good physical condition (and have adapted to the high altitude) and you have good topographic trail maps. These trails are snowbound often until late June or early July, so inquire locally before attempting them.

Another way to see Jackson Hole is on a raft in the Snake River. There are several outfitters who host whitewater rafters both in the national park and through the Snake River Canyon area south of Jackson. There also is a world famous climbing school inside the national park for the truly ambitious.

Many visitors to Grand Teton National Park return home and are disappointed with the results of their photography. There are a number of reasons for this: 1) The high mountain air is very dry and the resulting light can make for difficult picture taking conditions during mid-day. 2) The mountains often provide a lighter backdrop to foreground scenery, so many automatic cameras overexpose the mountains. 3) Just stopping at a highway turnout and snapping off a couple of quick frames can result in unsatisfying photos. With these problems in mind, here are some tips.

1. The hours just after sunrise and just before sunset provide the best conditions for rich, deep colors in your photos. If you’re at all serious about getting good pictures, spend the mid-day hiking and wandering, and save your picture taking for the early morning and early evening.
2. Use a camera that has a manually controlled light meter, and set your exposure based on the lighting on the mountains and the sky behind them, not on the foreground. Some foreground scenery will be slightly under-exposed (and therefore a little too dark) by taking this approach, but the mountains will be sharp and show exciting detail. Also, practice what photographers call “bracketing”: Choose your best exposure, then take two more pictures, one a full “stop” faster than the first picture, and the second a full “stop” slower. That way you’ll cover your bases. Professionals do this all the time, honest.
3. Photographers of the Tetons have learned that there are a number of spots that make for particularly interesting photos. There are six spots in particular that can result in beautiful photos you’ll be proud to show your friends. (Even if you’re not into photography, viewing the mountains from these locations is a great way to spend your day.) Here they are, from north to south:
• Oxbow Bend. This is a wide bend in the Snake River between Jackson Lake Lodge and Moran Junction, where the entry gate to the park is. If the wind is down, the water will reflect perfectly Mt. Moran and other Teton range peaks, which makes for a very dramatic scene.
• Signal Mountain. The Signal Mountain road is reached by taking the Teton Park Road at Jackson Lake Junction. Not far from the Signal Mountain area with its lodge, stores and restaurant is the turnoff to Signal Mountain Road. The road winds to the top of Signal Mountain. Just before reaching the summit is a parking area for a short trail that leads to a stunning panoramic view of the full Teton range.
• Snake River Overlook. This is perhaps the most commonly photographed Teton scene, made famous by Ansel Adams. This overlook is right on U.S. 89 past Moran Junction and gives you a great photo of the Grand Teton and its sister peaks with a bend of the Snake River in the foreground. This is an ideal place for a sunrise or sunset photo.
• String Lake. String Lake is reached by the Teton Park Road and is upstream from Jenny Lake. Where String Lake narrows and begins to empty into a channel that feeds Jenny Lake, the water is usually calm and reflects Teewinot mountain rising above the water.
• Schwabacher Landing. This is the classic spot for a photo of the Tetons reflected in water. On U.S. 89 between the Teton Point turnout and the Glacier View turnout is the turnoff west for Schwabacher Landing. This dirt road leads to a parking area and a trail that takes you to a small side channel of the Snake River. About a quarter-mile down the trail is a spot where, assuming there is no wind, the water is absolutely still and reflects perfectly the major peaks of the Tetons. Sunrise or early morning is the best time for this photo. Be sure to set your exposure for the mountains, not the foreground! Local granola crunchers find this a good site for an outdoor wedding.
• Mormon Row. This is another classic Teton image. Just past the Blacktail Ponds Overlook on U.S. 89 is the turnoff going east to Antelope Flats Road. Follow this asphalt road until it intersects with Mormon Row. Here, there is a series of barns and old homesteads first built by Mormon settlers, some of which are still maintained for their historic value. Photos of the Tetons with these homesteads in the foreground can be seen throughout the West. A hint: If you move well back from the buildings (as much as, say, 500 feet) and use a telephoto lens, you can “compress” the distance between the buildings and the mountains to create the illusion that they are closer than they really area – another trick of professional photographers.)

It’s impossible to spend a day touring Grand Teton National Park and the adjacent areas without seeing wildlife. The typical day should include sightings of elk, deer, moose and bison. Fortunate or particularly eagle-eyed visitors may see a coyote, prong horn antelope or bighorn sheep. Particularly fortunate visitors may see – or hear – the wolves recently reintroduced into the area. It’s also not uncommon to run across a black bear – you can decide whether that’s a fortunate thing or not.

There are places you can go to increase your chances to see wildlife. Here’s a list of where to go and what you might see there.

• Willow Flats. This is a popular place for moose and deer, plus the occasional coyote. There’s a marsh between Willow Flats and the turnoff to Jackson Lake Lodge that almost always has a moose or two during the summer. During peak season you’ll know if they’re there – there will be a major traffic jam.
• Oxbow Bend. Also a popular place for moose and deer.
• Mormon Row. There often is a full herd of bison in this area. Use caution – they may appear to be fenced in, but they are free range.
• Moose-Wilson Road. Elk, deer and moose frequent this area. There is a marsh area just a few miles south of the intersection with the Teton Park road that is a popular feeding ground for moose.
• Sage flats along Teton Park Road. This is the most likely place to spot pronghorn antelope and coyotes.
• Jenny Lake. This is where bears are often spotted, as well as moose, elk and deer.
• Mountain canyons. Bighorn sheep are difficult to spot, but this is where you’ll find them. The odds of seeing a bighorn from your car are pretty slim.
• National Elk Refuge. Naturally, elk are here by the thousands during winter. Wolves have also been seen here in winter, and bighorn sheep can sometimes be seen in the Gros Ventre foothills nearby.

The Jackson Hole area combines a touch of the chic of Aspen with the gritty cowboy culture of the true West, making for a unique experience. You’ll find excellent restaurants for almost any taste and pocketbook, but you can still enjoy a rowdy night at the pool table, if that is your leaning. The town of Jackson features a variety of museums and galleries for a real sampling of Western culture, plus a variety of shops running the gamut from Ralph Lauren to T-shirts. Rodeo Drive it’s not, but there’s something for almost any taste.

Jackson’s heart is its town square with its elk antler arches at each entrance. Surrounding the square is Jackson’s shopping district, which then branches out for several blocks in all directions. Finding a parking place anywhere near the square during peak season is nearly impossible, but parking is usually available within a few blocks. Every tourist must spend a few hours wandering the heart of Jackson. In summer, shoot-outs are staged downtown for the kids (and adults who are into that sort of thing).

Teton Village is about 15 miles away and also offers a number of restaurants and lodging options. Between the two areas are additional restaurants and lodging options, including chuckwagon dinners and exclusive condominiums. Jackson Hole features two world class golf courses – the semi-private Teton Pines on the road to Teton Village, and the older but just as spectacular Jackson Hole Golf and Racquet Club, reachable via U.S. 89 on the south edge of Grand Teton National Park.

Since 1962, Teton Village also has been home to the Grand Teton Music Festival, whose season runs through July and August. The Festival Orchestra is drawn from orchestras across North America, resulting in a diverse collection of first class musicians. The venue for the concerts is the Walk Festival Music Hall in Teton Village, which provides an intimate setting with superb acoustics. The festival features a wide variety of classical music. Performances are usually sold out, so if your plans include an overnight stay in Jackson during the festival season, call ahead for tickets.

Also running through the summer is a variety of food, wine and art festivals. Once your travel plans are set, check with the chamber of commerce or any of a dozen or so websites to find out what’s going on during your visit. The annual food and wine festival usually falls at the end of June.

But if it’s a truly authentic Jackson Hole cultural experience you’re looking for, there are two options: the Mangy Moose saloon and restaurant in Teton Village or the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar in Jackson.

The Mangy Moose has become “the” hangout for locals looking for good food and live music, and isn’t exactly a secret among tourists. The food is always good and plentiful, and the saloon attracts a surprising level of musical talent, including the likes of Dave Mason or the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band. Call ahead to find out who’s playing.

The Cowboy Bar is right on the square in downtown Jackson. Here, you can mosey up to the bar, order your favorite drink and enjoy it while sitting on a real saddle. At least these aren’t moving under a horse. If the pool tables are full, try the Rancher just across the street.

If you’re looking for a photographic memento to take home (and you’re not doing your own photography), there are a number of galleries around town. One place to make sure is on your list is former mayor Abi Garriman’s Under the Willow Tree Gallery just off the square. He’s hard to beat for a combination of selection and reasonable prices.

As for dining, it’s pretty hard to go wrong, but here are some ideas. The Cowboy Steakhouse is below the Cowboy Bar and has great food and a pleasant Western ambience. Get reservations on the weekend. Next door to the Cowboy Bar are the Cadillac Grille and Billy’s Giant Hamburgers, either a great place for a quick meal. You can order Billy’s burgers inside the Cadillac Grille if the limited seating inside Billy’s is full. Just down the street is the Bunnery, featuring a great bakery and a wonderful breakfast selection (it’s also open for lunch and dinner). Jedediah’s House of Sourdough is a couple of blocks off the square and offers meals plus sourdough baked goods, jellies and jams. Try the sourdough pancakes! Just around the corner and down the street from the Cowboy Bar is the historic Wort Hotel with its Silver Dollar Bar and Grille. Anthony’s also near the square, has very good Italian food. Finally, a short drive west down Broadway is Bubba’s Barbecue, a popular spot to get good barbecue at a reasonable price. On the east end of town past the hospital is the Lame Duck, featuring sushi and a great selection of Chinese dishes.

These are by no means the only places to dine in the Jackson Hole area, including high-brow gourmet restaurants. Part of the fun is exploring, and it’s pretty hard to go wrong regardless of your dining decision. And if you get a hankering for the familiar, all of the national fast-food chains are represented in ackson.

If you’re spending more than a few days in the Yellowstone-Teton region, you should take a day and make a loop drive into Idaho. The drive offers views of the western slope of the Teton range, plus access to the Island Park area, with stops at the Upper and Lower Mesa Falls and Big Spring. The route also runs along the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, one of the world’s great fly fishing streams.

From Jackson Hole, this loop drive begins on Wyoming Highway 22 at Wilson, Wyoming. From here, the highway heads west over Teton Pass and into Victor, Idaho. At Victor, head straight north on Idaho Highway 33 through Teton Valley, Idaho. The Tetons will emerge to the east as you drive through this beautiful agricultural region. At Driggs, you can turn eastward for an in-and-out visit across the Wyoming line to the Grand Targhee ski resort.

The highway turns west a few miles north of Driggs and runs through the center of the village of Tetonia. Just outside of town, take Idaho Highway 32 north. Just outside of Ashton, Idaho, look for the connection to Idaho Highway 47, which takes you into the Island Park area.

Once a dirt and gravel route in its higher elevations, this road is now completely paved and accessible to any vehicle until winter snows close it. Along the way are viewpoints for Upper and Lower Mesa Falls of the Henrys Fork. Both are worth a stop. The route eventually connects with U.S. Highway 20, which runs to West Yellowstone, Montana and the western entrance to Yellowstone. On the way to West Yellowstone, keep an eye out for signs pointing you to the “Big Spring Loop” near Macks Inn, Idaho. The short side trip takes you to a beautiful spring seeping from a hillside. To complete the loop, enter Yellowstone at its western entrance and head toward the south entrance and on into Jackson.