Yellowstone’s mystique actually grows to the frequent visitor. Those who visit it once for a day or two get to see the highlights – Old Faithful, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and its breathtaking Lower Falls, Mammoth Hot Springs and Yellowstone Lake. But any park ranger will tell you that 95 percent of the visitors to Yellowstone never stray beyond a half mile of the park highways.

It’s understandable. There are enough attractions just steps from the roadway to keep visitors entranced. Bison and elk cause traffic jams during the peak summer season. Mud pots boil only steps from the parking areas. There are a half dozen vantage points from which to view the Lower Falls mere feet from paved roads. But it’s also a bit of a shame, because on the hundreds of miles of hiking trails and short paths to Yellowstone’s more obscure sites lie jewels less well known but no less spectacular.

For example, Yellowstone is world famous for its thermal features but is home to dozens of magnificent waterfalls as creeks and rivers pour from the continental divide down the Yellowstone caldera, often free-falling and sometimes tumbling and foaming from the high country toward one ocean or the other. In fact, water is the lead act at Yellowstone, whether it is spewing from the ground or pouring over a cliff face. Some of the waterfalls are easily seen, but others require some work. A short walk takes visitors to Tower Falls in the northeast corner of the park. Longer walks provide views of Mystic and Fairy falls near the Midway Geyser Basin. Osprey Falls can be viewed in the northwest region of the park with a short but strenuous hike into a canyon. And a major hike into Yellowstone’s Bechler backcountry provides views of such major falls as Collonade and Union. Oregon’s Columbia River Gorge has more waterfalls per mile hiked, but Yellowstone is a worthwhile destination for any waterfall collector nonetheless.

And then there’s the wildlife. Bears, once commonplace in areas frequented by humans before the 1970s, are a rare sight nowadays since park managers took aggressive measures to separate them from humans. But bison, once nearly extinct, roam all corners of the park. Elk are equally commonplace. Coyotes, bighorn sheep, moose and deer are plentiful. The fortunate and eagle-eyed observer may even glimpse a wolf in Yellowstone’s northeast section. Thoughtful visitors, even those in a bit of a rush, do themselves a disservice if they don’t keep their eyes pealed at all times for one type of creature or another.

Yellowstone also represents “America’s best idea.” Democracy and representative government may have been perfected in the United States, but they weren’t invented here. But the idea of setting aside land for the public’s enjoyment, free from commercial development and permanent settlement, was invented by the United States with the creation of Yellowstone National Park in 1872. Since that time, countries around the world have copied the idea, but Yellowstone is the granddaddy of them all.

Later in this chapter is an itinerary for visitors planning one, two or three days in Yellowstone to assist the traveler in a hurry. But there are three areas that deserve particular attention if you’re not in a hurry or want to have an experience that is unique to Yellowstone.

The first is Mammoth Hot Springs not far from the where U.S. 89 enters the Yellowstone in the northwest corner of the park near Gardiner. Mammoth is a fascinating quick stop, but it becomes a memorable experience to the visitor willing to stop and stay awhile. In places bearing a remarkable resemblance to a giant marshmallow and caramel ice cream sundae, Mammoth Hot Springs is a one-of-a-kind place. Want a memorable moment? Take the boardwalk to Canary Spring and sit on one of the benches under the shade of a juniper tree. You are watching geology happen right before your eyes. The spring is constantly changing – return three years later and it will look different. Many people walk to the different sites along the Mammoth Hot Springs trail, gaze for a moment and move on. Those who take the time to soak in the sights will see it differently and remember it longer.

Another unique aspect of Mammoth is its role as a gathering place for elk and bison. It’s not uncommon for hundreds of elk to congregate near the buildings and residential areas below Mammoth Hot Springs, providing a rare opportunity to see them up close. (Don’t approach them! They’re magnificent, but wild and capable of doing serious damage to a comparatively fragile human body.)

The next area worthy of more than a quick stop for even the most time-starved visitor is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. U.S. 89 travelers will see the canyon’s namesake in Arizona later in the trip, but the Yellowstone version is equally impressive in a different way. Gouged out by the Yellowstone River, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone glistens multiple shades of gold in the summer sun, and the river at the bottom runs a light green color.

There are a number of hikes in the canyon area, the most spectacular of which is Uncle Tom’s Trail, which will take you to the base of the Lower Falls where it ends its 308-foot plunge into the canyon. There is no Maid of the Mist to take you into the falls’ mist as there is at Niagara, but this trail will get you just as wet. It’s a monster hike back up the 500 feet from the canyon floor, but worth the heavy breathing. On the other (west) side of the river, the Brink of the Falls trail takes you to the spot where Lower Falls begins its plunge. It also affords views of the 129-foot Crystal Falls nearby.

It’s also worthwhile to view the Lower Falls from each of a half-dozen or so viewpoints on either side of the river. Each provides a unique perspective.

And then there is the Upper Falls, an impressive plunge in its own right, which can be viewed from its brink via a viewpoint accessible by a short walk or from across the river at another view area. Signs to the viewpoints are hard to miss.

An entire morning or afternoon in the Canyon area of Yellowstone is time well spent. A day hiking the area is even better. It is a stunning place never to be forgotten.

The third highlight of any Yellowstone visit is the Upper Geyser Basin, home to Old Faithful and, not insignificantly, the magnificent Old Faithful Inn. If a visitor is either lucky or patient, he or she can be around to see a half dozen geysers erupt (some more than once) during a full day at the Upper Geyser Basin. Each geyser is unique. Riverside, as the name implies, erupts diagonally across the Firehole River. At certain times of day, the mist from this and other geysers creates a rainbow effect, and Riverside seems particularly prone to this phenomenon as it settles back into the river. Castle has a long, voluminous eruption out of a sinter cone that early visitors thought looked like a Castle. Grand Geyser requires patience as its eruption interval is not precisely predictable, but its enormous eruptions of up to 200 feet are worth the wait.

Of course, all Yellowstone visitors must see Old Faithful erupt at least once. Not only is it the most predictable of the geysers, but its eruption has a pleasant, symmetrical nature that makes for terrific pictures.

Here’s a perfect afternoon at Yellowstone. Pull into the Old Faithful area around noon. Grab lunch at any of the snack bars, cafeterias or restaurants nearby and make reservations for dinner at the Old Faithful Inn dining room. Check the board in the Inn or Visitors Center to find out which geysers are likely to erupt during your stay. Take the loop walk around the Upper Geyser Basin, taking your time to wait on the geysers of your choice. If Grand is expected to erupt that afternoon, wait it out – it’ll be worth it. Catch Riverside, Daisy, Castle and any others that happen to go while you’re there.

Before dinner, rest up, catch Old Faithful again, then sit in the Old Faithful lobby and listen to some live music and discuss the day with a stranger from Florida or Japan or France. As the sun begins to set, enjoy a good meal in a world famous dining room and forget that one day soon you’ll be back at work or mowing the lawn or paying bills. Then sleep the sleep of the truly content.

Highlighting Mammoth, Canyon and the Upper Geyser Basin by no way implies that the rest of the park should be overlooked. But the short-term visitor might be well served by really seeing the most significant features rather than racing through the whole park. If you’re a first-time visitor with plans to return, see the whole thing and decide where you want to linger when you return.

One other tip: Visiting Yellowstone in September or October is ideal. You run the risk of an early-season snowstorm, but the crowds are lighter and the scenery just as stunning. It’s easier to get lodging (though some lodging closes down after the peak season, so it’s still necessary to call ahead). In October, the elk rut is on and you’ll have the privilege of hearing the elk bugle echoing off the mountains.

If you’re thinking of taking care of your lodging needs during peak season without a reservation, don’t bother. You’ll be driving after dark hoping there’s something left in West Yellowstone, Gardiner, Cooke City or even Jackson, Idaho Falls or Bozeman. If you want to stay in the park, make reservations well in advance.

The Old Faithful Inn is a spectacular experience, but Club Med it’s not. The original part of the Inn offers modest accommodations and community showers. But everyone should stay there once. Accommodations elsewhere around Old Faithful or at other locations in the park are more modern and comfortable, but will give the visitor less to brag about after the vacation is over.

Lake Lodge is another excellent choice, offering spectacular views of Yellowstone Lake and terrific dining. All of Yellowstone’s lodging options are clean and comfortable, if spartan.

Gardiner, West Yellowstone and Cooke City are gateway towns just outside the park and offer more commercial lodging, plus a variety of dining options. West Yellowstone is the largest of these towns and has an increasing number of higher-end lodging options. It’s also home to an IMAX theatre and a bear exhibit. All three towns have an authentic Western ambience. Jackson is a two-hour drive (depending on traffic and your adherence to speed limits) from the south entrance and serves as a fine base for your visits to Grand Teton National Park (featured in chapter five), but isn’t very practical as a Yellowstone base.

Campgrounds fill up just as quickly – find your camping spot early.

Another option is to book a backcountry trip with any of the dozens of licensed outfitters that take groups into the Yellowstone wilderness. Some are on horseback, others are hiking trips, but the outfitters will pretty much take care of your every need. For the adventurous sort who wants to rough it with a touch of convenience, this is a great way to go. Most trips are three to four days, with some going longer. Trips into Bechler, for example, are usually four to five days long, providing opportunities to see a half-dozen or more major waterfalls in that area. Trips into Bechler are best in August or September when the spring thaw is over and the rivers are down (and mosquitoes less voracious).

An evening meal at Old Faithful Inn is a great way to end the day. The food is consistently good, but the ambience is the real treat.

Beyond that, there are restaurants, cafeterias and/or snack bars at the following locations in the park: Mammoth Hot Springs, Roosevelt Lodge, Tower Falls, Canyon Village, Old Faithful, Lake Village, and Grant Village. At most of these locations picnic lunches are available to carry with you on a day hike.

Gardiner and Cooke City have a variety of dining options, leaning toward traditional Western fare (heavy on beef, including buffalo). West Yellowstone has greater variety, including a number of national fast-food chains. All services also are available at Flagg Ranch just outside the south entrance to the park.

The most varied dining selections are in Bozeman, Jackson and Idaho Falls, all a drive of between 90 minutes and two hours from the nearest park entrance. Jackson offers everything from southern barbecue to the best in French and Italian cuisine (more on that in the next chapter).

Yellowstone is increasingly popular to winter visitors, though the numbers are in the thousands, not millions. Increasingly controversial are regular snowmobile tours into the park on groomed roads that allow access to the Old Faithful area. Environmentalists are increasingly concerned about the noise and exhaust pollution of snowmobiles and their impact on the wildlife and air quality, and the Park Service announced in 2000 that it would be phasing out snowmobiles in the park, a decision that will likely end up in the courts. Large-capacity (and comparitively warm and comfortable) snowcats also take visitors into the Old Faithful area in the winter. West Yellowstone is a snowmobilers’ haven in winter, with hundreds of miles of groomed trails and a number of racing events. A number of outfitters offer winter tours of various sections of the park. Reservations are recommended.

The story, perhaps apocryphal, goes that a visitor to Yosemite National Park once asked a ranger what he should do if he had just one day to see the sights. “I’d just sit down on that rock over there and cry,” the ranger said. The same can certainly be said of Yellowstone. Still, studies of park patrons show that the majority visit Yellowstone as part of a vacation that includes other stops, meaning they need to be efficient in the use of their time.

Providing the following short-stay itineraries is in no way an endorsement of attempting to see Yellowstone in three days or less – it would take a number of lifetimes to see it all, and it’s inconceivable that a regular visitor could ever tire of the park’s magic. Still, despite the fact that much of Yellowstone’s beauty and unique nature is away from the major roads inside the park, the one- or two-day visitor can still see the highlights. These itineraries are intended to provide a sampling of the best of what Yellowstone has to offer to the short-term visitor.

This itinerary assumes entering the park at Gardiner, not far from Mammoth Hot Springs, on U.S. 89. Itineraries also assume that you are visiting the park between Memorial Day and Nov. 1, when all roads are open – unless there was a particularly harsh or late winter..

8 a.m.: Before leaving Gardiner (or any other park gateway town), be sure to fill up with gas because gas in the park is very expensive.

Depending on the time of year (and, therefore, the amount of traffic), the short drive from the entrance to Mammoth Hot Springs takes less than 30 minutes. One way to see Mammoth is to drive into the Upper Terraces loop drive above the springs and let off the rest of the gang so they can enjoy an all-downhill stroll to see Mammoth Hot Springs. Otherwise, there’s a fairly short but mildly strenuous walk from the bottom.

Mammoth is worth a good hour for the one-day tour. Mammoth also is home to a restaurant and snack bar, convenience store and other comforts. Depending on the time of year, Mammoth also is a common gathering place for bison and elk. As always, use caution around wildlife.

10 a.m.: Leave Mammoth Hot Springs and drive east toward Tower Junction. Several miles east of Mammoth there’s a pullout for Undine Falls on your left. It’s worth a brief stop to look at the multi-level cascade from above. As you near Tower, this is the area in the park where you’re most likely to see a bear, though they are rarely seen any more. Tower Falls is one of the prettiest of Yellowstone’s dozens of waterfalls. The hike to the bottom is short but a little strenuous coming back up – those in a hurry or not up to the hike back up can see most of the falls from a vantage point only several hundred feet from the parking area. It’s about a 45-minute stop.

11:30 a.m.: Leave Tower and head south through Hayden Valley toward Canyon. This is a pretty drive, though you’ll see some of the effects of the huge 1988 wildfires. The valley is often full of bison. Beware these gentle-looking creatures – they’ll charge and can easily outrun a human.

Arrive at Canyon. You’ll want to spend a couple of hours here. There are several viewpoints of both the Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls, all of which are worth seeing. One viewpoint that many tourists miss is Artist Point. Don’t pass this one up. It’s breathtaking. Canyon also has all tourist facilities, including restaurants, snack bars, a grocery store, etc. This is a good place for lunch.

2 p.m.: Leave Canyon and head west toward Norris. By taking this route you’ll miss a couple of interesting spots toward Yellowstone Lake, but the one-day visitor needs to see Yellowstone’s geyser basins, which are southwest of Canyon. At Norris, turn south toward Old Faithful. When you get to Madison, continue south. Just after the junction is a turn-off onto a one-way road along the Firehole River. It’s worth the extra few minutes. Stop at the viewpoint for Firehole Falls before reconnecting to the main highway toward Old Faithful.

The next stop is Fountain Paint Pot. This has boardwalk trails through a thermal area that has created beautiful pools and other thermal features. It’s worth a 30-minute stop. From there, drive to the Midway Geyser Basin just down the road, worth another 30-minute stop. Your last stop before Old Faithful is the Sapphire Pool at Biscuit Basin.

4:30 p.m.: Finally, you’re at Old Faithful. Upon arrival, check at the geyser desk inside the Old Faithful Inn or at the visitor’s center to determine when Old Faithful is to erupt next. While you’re there, check on the estimated eruptions for other geysers in the Upper Geyser Basin. Of course, you must see Old Faithful erupt, but there are a dozen or so other major geysers within an easy one-hour walk of Old Faithful. After you’ve watched Old Faithful, take the time to walk the Upper Geyser Basin. If you’re lucky, you’ll see as many as three other geysers erupt during your walk.

Old Faithful is an idea place for dinner, with several restaurants and snack bars. The ambience at the Inn is delightful – it’s a great place to end the day and enjoy a meal. Plan on three hours at Old Faithful to end your day.

7:30 p.m.: If you’re staying the night in Jackson, it’s about a two-hour drive from Old Faithful, if the traffic is light. It’s perhaps an hour back to West Yellowstone or Mammoth and Gardiner. The best idea, however, is to plan on spending the night at Old Faithful before driving on the next morning.

Follow the one-day itinerary to Canyon, with perhaps a little more leisure at each stop. At Canyon, add two hours to your stay by taking one of several short hikes. Uncle Tom’s Trail is the best, but it’s a very strenuous walk back up after you’ve stood at the base of the Lower Falls. For those who can make the walk, it’s a truly memorable experience.

From Canyon, continue south on the park highway instead of going west as in the one-day itinerary. Sulphur Caldron and Mud Volcano are worth a stop about 30 minutes south of Canyon. If you’re still up for a short hike, the walk to Natural Bridge at Bridge Bay is worth the time. Continue along Yellowstone Lake, stopping at your leisure, until you reach West Thumb. There, turn west toward Old Faithful. Just before arriving at Old Faithful, stop at the Keppler Cascades turnout.

You’ll arrive at Old Faithful toward evening. Take the time to see Old Faithful erupt before you retire, and be sure to enjoy the Inn as the day ends. It’s a unique experience that you’ll cherish long after your trip is over.

The next morning, spend the first half of the day at the Upper Geyser Basin. Start by checking on which geysers are predicted to erupt during the morning, then plan your walk around the basin accordingly. With the entire morning, you should see as many as a half-dozen geysers erupt if you plan well and get lucky. If Grand Geyser is expected to erupt during your stay, it’s worth the patience (it’s not nearly as predictable as Old Faithful, so it requires a wait). Spending an entire day at the Upper Geyser Basin isn’t a bad way to go, either.

From Old Faithful, head to Biscuit Basin, where there are two hikes worth taking. One is a short, easy hike to Mystic Falls. The other is an equally easy but longer hike to Fairy Falls. Either walk is rewarded with a view of a pretty waterfall. Mystic is a full-bodied cascade on the Little Firehole River, while Fairy is a tall ribbon on Fairy Creek. The two hikes can be combined into a longer loop hike – consult available maps. Continue on Middle and Lower Geyser Basins, where you’ll want to extend your stay from the one-day schedule. From there, you can head toward the exit of your choice before nightfall.

If you’re fortunate enough to have three days at Yellowstone, your options are many. If you’re a hard-core hiker, exploring the Bechler region and its numerous waterfalls in southwestern Yellowstone is a great option. Check with rangers or the available books and guides on Yellowstone hiking for more information. This is serious hiking for those in good shape and with back-country experience, and requires a good deal of planning ahead of time. It can be done in two days for those in good physical condition as point-to-point hike ending at a Forest Service road just outside the park, which requires a second pick-up vehicle at the hike’s end.

For the less adventerous, take a full day in the geyser basin region, plotting your walks in the Upper Geyser Basin to coincide the geyser eruptions. You can use the Old Faithful area as your anchor point, staying two nights either in the lodging or campgrounds in the area. If you want to stay in motel-style lodging available near Old Faithful or at the Inn itself, make reservations early – the rooms are always full in peak season. You might also add a stop at the Norris Geyser Basin in the northwest region of the park.

You should also consider extending your stay at Canyon to a half day, and this is another excellent option for spending the night. There are a number a excellent hikes in the Canyon area for people of varying skill level and conditioning.

Finally, there are a number of day hikes that can fill out your itinerary. Here are some favorites (not counting those already mentioned in the one- and two-day itineraries):

• Osprey Falls. A two-mile round trip with a 500-foot elevation loss. Trailhead is on the Bunsen Peak Road in the Mammoth Hot Springs region.
• Lava Creek. This is a seven-mile round trip, but it’s only a half-mile (one way) to Undine Falls, a two-terrace falls on Lava Creek that can also be viewed from a distance from the park highway. The trail is a healthy 760-foot elevation change. Trailhead is about five miles east of Mammoth.
• Wraith Falls. This is more a walk than a hike, totaling just over a half mile round trip to a modest cascade of Lava Creek. Trailhead is not far from the Undine Falls turnout.
• Roosevelt-Tower. This is a four mile round trip to Lost Creek Falls. Trailhead is at Roosevelt Lodge near Tower.
• Mount Washburn. This is a breathtaking hike that leads to a lookout tower on Mount Washburn offering views for hundreds of miles in all directions, including Yellowstone Lake and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. If it’s stormy, don’t take this hike, as it is exposed to lightning. Depending on which trailhead you use, the hike is between four and a half and six miles. Trailheads are at the Dunraven Pass and Chittenden picnic area. Again, if you choose to make this hike, get more details from rangers or available books and guides.
• Artist Paint Pot. This is an easy walk of less than a mile with close-up views of multi-colored thermal features. Trailhead is about four miles south of the Norris junction.
• Lone Star Geyser. This geyser erupts about every three hours, so those wanting to be rewarded with a show must be patient. This is a good sack lunch hike. The hike is about four and half miles round trip, and there isn’t much elevation change. The trailhead is near the Kepler Cascade parking area.

There you have it. From a whirlwind visit that hits the highlights to a more leisurely exploration of Yellowstone’s famous and lesser-known attractions, a visit to the park rarely leaves one disappointed. Enjoy your stay, whatever the duration.